The Story
Paiwandi is the art of joining what already exists.
A piece brought together with another. A fragment given a new place. Something familiar, reworked into something that feels entirely its own.
Rooted in the tradition of paiwandi — the practice of joining and layering pieces of fabric — this article looks at how fragments can become a whole without losing the character of where they came from.
The artwork moves between block printing and layered patchwork, allowing individual motifs to overlap, interrupt, reveal, and connect with one another.
It is not about making every piece identical.
It is about allowing different pieces to belong together.
In Paiwandi, the patch is not simply an embellishment. It becomes part of the composition — sometimes covering a mark, sometimes revealing it, and sometimes creating an entirely new one through the relationship between what is underneath and what is placed above.
Different fragments. Different impressions. One piece, brought together by hand.
The Front
The front begins with a block-printed jaal that creates the underlying visual texture of the garment.
Block-printed borders run along the hem and continue onto the sleeves, while additional block-printed jaal detailing gives the silhouette a continuous visual rhythm.
At the centre, the MALANG name is first block printed onto the fabric.
It is then layered with a cut-and-applied block-printed patch, allowing the same word to exist in two forms at once — printed directly onto the garment and brought forward through fabric.
Additional block-printed patches are placed around the hem in different forms, adding another layer to the composition.
The result is a front built through overlap and repetition — print beneath patch, motif beside motif, each layer adding another impression.
The Back
The back continues the same idea of layering, but introduces a more deliberate relationship between what is visible and what is hidden.
A block-printed jaal forms the central foundation of the back.
Across it, the individual Urdu characters میم، لام، نون، گاف are block printed in separate positions, allowing the MALANG identity to become part of the underlying artwork rather than appearing as one conventional logo.
A large block-printed patch is then placed over this composition.
The patch is intentionally cut to reveal sections of the artwork beneath it.
Through these openings, the characters printed directly onto the garment remain visible — creating a layered dialogue between surface and underneath, concealment and reveal.
The patch does not completely cover what came before.
It becomes a frame through which the original naqsh continues to exist.
The Artwork
Paiwandi is constructed through a sequence of layers:
Block print. Cut fabric. Patch. Print beneath print. One layer revealing another.
The block-printed jaal establishes the foundation. Motifs and borders build the surrounding language, while the cut-and-applied patches introduce depth and interruption.
The most distinctive detail is the relationship between the patchwork and the artwork underneath it — where sections of the original block print deliberately remain visible through the cut patch.
This makes the construction itself part of the story.
Nothing is completely covered. Nothing is completely replaced. Everything becomes part of what comes next.
Care Instructions
- Hand wash recommended.
- Wash separately or with similar colours.
- Avoid machine washing to preserve the block prints and patchwork.
- Turn the garment inside out before washing.
- Avoid harsh detergents and excessive rubbing over printed or patched areas.
- Do not expose directly to harsh sunlight for extended periods.
- Dry in shade.
- Handle the patchwork areas gently to maintain their shape and finish.
Craft & Finish
Paiwandi combines hand block printing with layered, cut-and-applied patchwork, creating an artwork that is built rather than simply printed.
The patches are individually cut and applied, while the block-printed motifs and jaal are placed to create relationships between the different layers of the garment.
As a handmade piece, natural variations in print placement, density, patch edges, texture, and finish may occur. These variations are part of the process and give every article its individual character.
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